In those days the trip from Inverness was an adventure. You negotiated Inverness itself, crossing the River Ness, and headed for Beauly then Dingwall in order to skirt first the Beauly Firth and then the Cromarty Firth. At Alness you had a choice: either to take the minor road over the moors to Bonar Bridge at the head of the Dornoch Firth or to stay on the A9 and use the coastal route via Tain, a longer but easier drive. On a clear day, of course, the views from the high road are exceptional. On a poor day, staying on the tarmac can be a challenge.

In good conditions you could reach Dornoch from Inverness in about one and a half hours. Nowadays, with excellent bridges over the Firths of Moray, Cromarty and Dornoch, that same drive takes half the time and the vastly improved accessibility of Dornoch has led to many changes in the town. International recognition of the golf course is one such change, followed by the development of an international membership, many of whom have bought properties there. With more visitors coming to the town, and with more money being spent in it, the infrastructure is improving all the time too. Smart gift shops like Dornoch Jail have appeared; some of the hotels have been refurbished - notably the Royal Golf; and a demand has been answered for quality cuisine.

Meeting this last challenge are Michael and Karensa Carr, who moved from England to Dornoch a few years ago and converted an attractive town house in Main Street. 2 Quail is the result, an intimate ground floor restaurant with seating for just 16 lucky people who will be treated to a limited-choice menu of exceptional quality prepared fresh from local produce.

Michael trained at the Ritz in London and did stints in Europe and the UK before opening his own restaurant in Newcastle. He is now as enthusiastic in his affection for Dornoch as he is in his love of fine food and wine. Given the time to chat he will also reveal his passion for golf, a sport he took up only after moving to Dornoch, and already he plays a creditable game. Karensa is the perfect foil for him, effortlessly combining the roles of waitress, maitre d', friend and travel consultant.

Naturally, local salmon or venison feature regularly in the menu but you may also find potted lobster with gewúrztraminer jelly and truffle salad or roasted breast of Deben duck with creamed savoy cabbage, smoked bacon and a thyme gravy. There is an inevitable delay between ordering and serving of meals prepared with freshly cooked produce. This is neatly bridged by offering tasty hors d'oevres and a small (coffee cup) portion of delicious soup to guests while they wait for their first course.

With warm heavy curtains, rich tartan carpets and library-style walls the atmosphere is comfortable and relaxing. The set dinner price is £30 per head for 5 courses, including coffee, and wines start from around £18 per bottle. Booking is essential. (01862 811 811).