BALLYLIFFIN AND IRELAND'S MAGICAL NORTH WEST

'From Scotland via Glasgow to Belfast or Portrush (via steamer), thence by Belfast and Northern Counties Railway, via Ballymena, to Londonderry. On arrival in Londonderry, change for Lough Swilly Railway Station. There book through to Rathmullan, via Fahan, crossing Lough Swilly by ferry steamer. A Char-a-Banc daily awaits the boat at Rathmullan, from 1st June to 30th September, running in connection with the mid-day train from Londonderry, and leaves the hotel each morning in time for the noon train from Fahan for Londonderry. Later arrivals will find cars awaiting later boats in Rathmullan. Fare 4 shillings (60 cents); 18 miles.'

When Morris made the journey to visit Lord Leitrim in 1891, he was 70 years old! Today, most septegenarians would have trouble just following the above instructions! But, not to worry, the journey now is much easier, whether coming from Scotland, like Old Tom did, or from other parts of Ireland.

And, if you fly into Ireland it makes sense to map out a leisurely route to the northwest. Flying into Shannon allows a comfortable drive to Cashel or Sligo. The first option, which permits a visit to the excellent Cashel House, takes you through the bewitching countryside of Connemara. Eddie Hackett's excellent links at nearby Ballyconneely is in the throes of further improvement by Pat Ruddy, who is increasing the number of holes in the dunelands, which will extend the complex to 27 holes. Don't blame Hackett for failing to use all the most interesting ground at the outset - he had a budget of only $35,000 for the entire project!

The food at Cashel is always a star attraction, but do make time for a short trip to Roundstone, where the little harbour, sensational view and excellent pub (O'Dowd's) encapsulate all that's best in this part of Ireland. Westport, via the fabulous scenery of Clew Bay, is a short drive from Cashel and has its own lovely parkland course; and Newport House is a few miles further up the road. With an estuary frontage, fine cuisine and delightful rooms, this is one of the best small hotels in Ireland. (Rooms in the main house are much better than those in the courtyard). Carne is within easy reach for a day trip, as is Achill Island, which has its own course in a wild and windy setting.

Carne at Belmullet seems destined for wide acclaim: it is a big links course in a wonderful location, with some of the finest holes in Ireland. The last course to be designed by Eddie Hackett, it is laid out around sand dunes set on ancient common land. Elevated tees and plateau greens afford fantastic views of a string of islands in the bay, including Inishkea, Inishglora and Achill Island. Wild flowers, such as Burnet roses, primroses and wild thyme, dot the sand dunes, which rise steeply in places from the sides of the fairways. Doglegs feature at a number of holes and, with four par 3's and five par 5's, there is ample opportunity to use every club in the bag.

The opening hole has an inviting drive to a ridge set between high dunes and requires a hit of some 230 yards to give a view of the green from the dogleg. A quality iron shot is then required at the short 2nd to a plateau green. Straight hitting is called for at the par 4, 3rd, which has a blind drive, and at the par 5, 4th hole which has out-of-bounds bordering the entire left side of the fairway. Two more good par 4's come next before another excellent short hole, again to a raised green, with out-of-bounds tight to the left-hand side. The 9th is a fine short par 4 where precision rather than length is the priority off the tee. Then, at 432 yards from the medal tee, the 10th may seem an easy par 5, but it plays longer than its yardage and yields few birdies.

Delightful short doglegs come at the 11th and 12th, first right and then left, with fairways nestling like canyons between massive dunes. Two good iron shots are all that each requires, but they need to be good! More excellent short holes come at the 14th and the 16th before a very tough finish. The 17th, just shy of 400 yards, demands a big drive over a ridge to leave any prospect of getting home in two, while the 18th is a strong par 5 with a huge dip in front of the green. It's better to stay short of this for the third shot because to be in the dip is to have no view of the green.

Enniscrone, long an AIG favourite, is a course which you may recommend to your friends with confidence. The original course was laid out in 1918, but that man Eddie Hackett redesigned it in 1974 and produced a course good enough to host the West of Ireland Championships.

Springy turf, wonderful views, warm hospitality and some dramatic and unique holes, skillfully threaded through the rugged dunes, make Enniscrone a delight to play. Three par 5's in the first four holes provide an unusual start, before the par-3 5th demands anything from a 7 iron to a 3 wood to cover its 170 yards. Cockle Strand, the 6th hole, is a superb par 4 of 395 yards calling for two mighty shots, while the short par 4's at the 7th and 9th demand precision from both tee and fairway. In between, the short 8th features a wickedly difficult green set in a cleft between the dunes.

The 10th tee, set high on the dunes, provides a magnificent view of Killala Bay and the Moy estuary and is followed by the 11th, at 424 yards, one of the most difficult holes on the course. More fine holes follow before a finish, which does justice to any round. Ox Mountains, the par-4 15th, is named after its view, while Garden, the par-4 16th, features the smallest green on the course. Big hitters will try to cut off the dog-leg to leave an easier approach to the elevated green; lesser mortals will be happy just to keep their ball in play. The short 17th is reminiscent of Troon's Postage Stamp - a plateau green falls away steeply in all directions and is most difficult to hold when the wind is helping! Miss it and forget making par. And so to the 18th, which again calls for solid ball striking to reach a green protected by intimidating bunkers. Currently, the course is undergoing improvements. The aim is to add some new holes in the rolling dunes to replace the flatter opening holes and so make the entire course more powerful and dramatic.

County Sligo's original course at Rosses Point comprised 9 holes and was built under the direction of George Coombe. Capt Willie Campbell added 9 more holes in 1907, but Harry Colt's radical revision in 1928 gave the layout its modern look and undoubted quality. The regard within Ireland for both club and course is reflected by its near monopoly on West Of Ireland Championships. And, since their first professional was appointed in 1922, the club has had only four incumbents, which says something about both the course and its members.

At 6584 yards it is not a monster, but seaside courses are prone to wind, which can make yardages academic. County Sligo calls for length and precision in equal measure. A tough opening hole, 382 yards uphill to a well-protected green, is followed by a gentle 305 yard par 4, which nonetheless will yield par to only the most accurate approach shot. The 3rd is a mighty par 5 from an elevated tee, which affords a panoramic view of the entire course, before the first of the short holes demands a good swing and accurate club selection. More good par 4's follow before the short 9th, which is surrounded by bunkers, with out-of bounds at the rear of the green. Birdie chances may come at the 10th, 11th and 12th, where we reach the shore for the first time. It's easy to over-club at the short 13th, and dangerous, too, with a burn (stream) behind the green, and more burns come into play with both drive and approach on the 14th. The scenery can distract you on any of the finishing holes, but, with three tough par 4's and a difficult short hole - at the 16th - you will need your wits about you!

A little further north, Donegal is also a must! Situated on rolling links just south of town at Murvagh, this is another Eddie Hackett gem, which this year had perhaps the finest greens in Ireland. With a S.S.S. of 73 over its 6867 yards, Hackett has made Donegal a real test. Lying along the sandy strand of Donegal Bay and backed by the magnificent Blue Stack mountains, it is also exceptionally beautiful.

Presented in two loops of nine holes, with fairways meandering through the dunes and views across the bay ever-present, the course begins with a big par 5. A long drive is required between two large bunkers to give the right angle for the second shot. Most will lay up and leave a pitch, for the green is both on a plateau and protected by a deep bunker in front. Out-of-bounds threatens on the right for the next three holes, in which a 200 yard par 3 is sandwiched between two long par 4's. The 5th, Valley of Tears, is a gem of a short hole: 194 yards across a mogul-filled depression to an angled green, with mounds and pot bunkers lurking at the back and a cavernous trap in front, to emphasize that the green really is the only safe haven. With the ocean on the right, the next three holes play into the prevailing wind - two long par 5's, either side of a difficult par 4, with each hole calling for strategy as well as length, since cross rough, bunkers and mounding restrict the available fairway. More cross rough short of the green is a feature of the 9th, while the 10th is all about judging your line off the tee to negotiate the dog-leg. Two more par 5's come at 12 and 14, with a pair of interesting short holes at 13 and 16. In fact, the 16th is not that short - 234 yards off the medal tee. The final drive, over a huge dune, is the only blind tee shot on the course!

Wonderful views are available from all parts of the course and, indeed, from the smart new clubhouse, where the hospitality and friendliness of the staff are immediately apparent.

County Donegal is fortunate to have a number of other scenic links courses, too. Narin and Portnoo has breath-taking views and some dramatic holes, which would test golfers of all levels. The clubhouse is rustic, with the amiable manager, Sean Murphy, doubling as barman, secretary, starter and administrator. Dunfanaghy is of similar ilk, while Portsalon is more akin to Westport - a smart and imposing clubhouse overlooking a green, well-kept seaside course, with some very fine holes and a few quirky ones, too.

Near to Portsalon is Rosapenna, which bring us back to the story of Old Tom's visit. After laying out a 9 hole course for Lord Leitrum in 1891, Morris was taken on a scenic tour of the local area around Sheephaven Bay. Captivated by both scenery and golfing potential, the old master convinced the aristocrat of the wisdom of constructing an 18 hole layout in the magnificent duneland bordering the bay. The erection of a hotel in 1892 established Rosapenna as one of the earliest golfing resorts.

Although the course was privately owned, Lord Leitrim allowed the formation of the Rosapenna Golf Club in 1895 with limited members' playing privileges. So natural was the golfing terrain, that Old Tom constructed only three green sites, the remainder taking advantage of natural features. Minor revisions of the course were undertaken later by Vardon and Braid, principally to lengthen the course in response to the advent of the gutty ball. Then, in 1962, the old hotel was destroyed by fire and a new one was built. The present owners, Frank and Hilary Casey, purchased the complex in 1981 and instructed Eddie Hackett to undertake a major revision which lengthened the course to almost 7,000 yards for championships, and also provided a 9 hole relief course which is invaluable for instruction and beginners. Hackett's revision has preserved several of Old Tom's original holes, as well as the improvements incorporated by Vardon and Braid. The first three holes are Morris originals. Opening with a short, uphill par 4 of 320 yards, the course affords a gentle start. But the second, 427 yards in length, features a stunning downhill drive with Tramore beach on the right. And the 3rd, a very testing par 4 of 451 yards, follows the line of the beach, too. Vardon and Braid were responsible for the next five holes, of which the 6th is an interesting par 3, and the 7th a delightful par 4. The 8th was stretched by Hackett to 485 yards to make a fair par 5 instead of an overly difficult par 4.

The 10th is attributed to Old Tom, but the remaining holes are new designs, with the final four providing a high class finish through dunes reminiscent of Ballybunion. With its combination of dunes, hillocks, Morris plateau greens and Braid bunkers, not to mention a spectacular scenic backdrop, Rosapenna will delight any links enthusiast. The new hotel, although a little modern in external appearance, is furnished in more traditional style and offers excellent service.

Ballyliffin is variously complimented by comparison to Royal Dornoch and Ballybunion. It now has two superb courses each deserving of your time and appreciation. Nick Faldo arrived by helicopter to play the Old Links in 1993 and was mightily impressed. He praised the Old Links as the most natural golf course he had ever played. Like many others before him, he saw potential for a second course in the vast expanse of nearby duneland. And within two years, Pat Ruddy and Tom Craddock designed the magnificent new Glashedy Links which has made Ballyliffin a golfing centre to match any in Britain. A recent bid by Faldo to buy the whole complex was rejected by the members! The Old Links is characterised from the outset by extraordinary golfing terrain. The view from the 1st tee reveals a myriad of humps and bumps, which seem to stretch forever. But even by the time you reach the elevated green at the 2nd, you will have enjoyed several glimpses of Glashedy Rock, Ballyliffin's own Ailsa Craig, off to the left. On the green, your concentration on a sharply breaking putt will be tested by the 360 degree vista around you as the ocean comes fully into view.

The 3rd hole is played straight towards the water along a fairway of frighteningly narrow width, and the long 4th follows, rippling with gentle contours and shadows. The short 5th is a signature hole. "The Tank" has a green perched between sandhills and is one of those holes where you must reach the putting surface with the tee shot.

Leaving the sea behind now, the Old Links wind inland with stunning views of the surrounding hills. The back nine start again from the clubhouse, with two doglegs followed by an outstanding short hole. At over 200 yards, the 12th can require a mighty blow if the wind is against, but the green has an amphitheater-like quality, which beckons the shot.

The 13th returns once again to the shore, and the view from the 14th tee is mesmerizing, with a panorama from Malin Head past Glashedy to Fanad Head. Fine holes follow at the 15th (stroke 1) and 17th - a par 3 with a green which has been likened to a rumpled duvet. The par 5, 18th is considered by some to be the finest closing hole in Ireland.

The new Glashedy course has been built on the grand scale: large, subtly-contoured greens; cavernous, revetted bunkers; rolling dunes which reach massive proportions on some holes; and views which are never less than sublime.

The front nine are dominated by views of Glashedy Rock, which is never out of view from the 4th hole onwards. The back nine contain some of the finest holes in Ireland: the sharply dog-legged 12th, the imperious long 13th and the testing par 4, 15th. In between, the seductive, short 14th calls for subtlety rather than power, but you may need both to negotiate the difficult 18th, with your final shots invariably scrutinized by the members in the excellent new clubhouse. If the memories of the courses are rich, those of the clubhouse will match them. We attended an opening party this year for the new clubhouse, which lasted for 48 hours. The generosity and hospitality of members and staff would be hard to match anywhere in the world. At the time of writing, the club has a wonderful overseas life membership offer at the giveaway price of $5,000. We will put you in touch with the secretary/manager, Cecil Doherty, if you wish to take advantage of this!

To round off a visit to Ireland's north west you must visit Royal Portrush. Unquestionably one of the finest courses in the world, Royal Portrush enjoys a breathtaking seaside setting with views to the Mull of Kintyre and the mountains of Jura. Closer to home are Dunluce Castle and the famous Giant's Causeway, one of the wonders of the world! The club was formed in 1888, when it was known as the County Club. The Royal affix was added ten years later, and the present name was adopted in 1895 when the then Prince of Wales was the club's patron, and when Lady Margaret Scott won the British Ladies Championship here.

Also in 1895, the Club's first professional, Sandy Herd, beat the little-known Harry Vardon in the final of the first professional tournament ever played in Ireland. They played on a course which utilised some of the present holes, but eyes at the time were turned covetously toward the dunes between the existing links and the white rocks.

In 1932, Harry Colt was commissioned to redesign the Dunluce Course at a cost not to exceed 3200 pounds, and work proceeded at pace to allow the opening of the new course in July 1933 by the Lord Mayor of London, Sir Percy Greenway, in whose honour the 18th hole is now named. When, in 1946, the club moved from its clubhouse in the town to the present building (formerly the Holyrood Hotel), the original 1st and 18th holes were lost, so two new holes were constructed - the current 8th and 9th - and the other holes were renumbered accordingly. That was the only change to Colt's design (he approved the change) and recognition of the quality of the layout was evidenced by the decision to hold the 1951 Open Championship at Portrush. Max Faulkner won the title with a total of 285, but Jack Hargreaves set the record score of 66, which still stands. From the opening drive the course is full of challenging and interesting shots, with each player having a favorite hole. The 3rd is a delightful short hole and the 4th requires a long and accurate drive to give any chance of a par. The dogleg 5th has a green on the very edge of the beach, but reaching it depends on achieving position from the tee - no easy feat across the prevailing wind, and under the distraction of the magnificent views towards the Scottish Isles. More tough par 4's follow the short 6th (Harry Colt's) before back-to-back par 5's conclude the front nine and start us home. The green at the short 11th, usually played downwind, is ringed by bunkers, which makes club selection all-important, while the 12th and 13th are potential birdie holes if the approach is well-struck. Calamity, the short 14th, is world-famous. On the left of the green is Bobby Locke's hollow, and discretion favors following the great man rather than risking a trip 'down the mine', which fate awaits shots missing the green to the right.

The 15th and 16th are more stout holes before the very difficult finishing holes acquire a more parkland character. Most visitors come to Portrush without even realizing that a sister course to the Dunluce - the Valley - even exists. Lying closer to the sea than its illustrious neighbor, the Valley offers a fine test and is the home of the Ladies' Golf Club. One of the two qualifying rounds for the North of Ireland Championship is played here, so its claim to rank as a championship layout is not an empty one.

There are some wonderful country house hotels in the north west of Ireland. After leaving Cashel House or Newport House, Ballincar House is just a long iron from County Sligo Golf Club at Rosses Point, and our friends the O'Hara family continue to offer fine accommodations at Coopershill House just a few miles south of Sligo at Riverstown. Further north, St Ernan's House Hotel, situated on a wooded tidal island at Donegal, is a haven of tranquility. Built in 1826 by John Hamilton, a nephew of the Duke of Wellington, it has 12 en-suite bedrooms, most offering superb sea and country views. Fine dining, with a reliance on fresh local produce, and local amenities, which include fishing and riding as well as golf, complete the attractions. On the shores of Lough Swilly are Rathmullan House and Castlegrove House, two outstanding country houses with fine kitchens and delightful rooms, adorned with lovely antiques. For good measure, Rathmullan also has an excellent leisure complex with steam rooms, sauna, heated indoor pool - and massage and beauty therapy for those in need of a little TLC. Moving north and east, St John's House is small and cosy, with excellent cuisine and the advantage of proximity to Ballyliffin. Beech Hill House and the Everglades in Derry are both good, while regular readers will know well the Ardtara Hotel at Upperlands. Good food, fine rooms, friendly and efficient service - and an easy drive to Belfast International Airport for departure! Galgorm Manor and The Bushmills Inn are reliable alternatives in this area.