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ENGLAND'S
WEST COUNTRY The enchantment of the countryside is such that this area can become very crowded in high summer. Yet it makes a fabulous vacation destination in Spring and Fall, when the colours are at their best and the days are still long and inviting. The scenery is spectacular: moors with high granite tors and dramatic coastline rub shoulders with sleepy villages nestling in gentle valleys. Smugglers' inns abound in seaside coves and fine golf courses are to be found in abundance.
Further west is Saunton, where Harry Vardon once vowed he would like to retire and do nothing but play golf for pleasure. One of the few seaside links laid out for the modern ball the course has withstood modern advances in equipment better than most. Despite seeing service as a wartime battle training area, the old course (East) was resurrected by Ken Cotton in 1950. The new course (West) has been upgraded in recent years (new greens being a prime improvement) to ensure that Saunton has two courses of true championship quality. With better access, it would surely be an Open Championship venue. Westward Ho! (Royal North Devon), where J H Taylor was the Professional for so many years, is just across the estuary. The oldest seaside course in England its charm lies partly in the fact that nobody has attempted to update it! Taylor was born and died within sight of the links, and spent much of his time in-between at his cottage. He never tired of the view and, despite winning five Opens and playing exhibition matches all over the country, he hastened back there whenever he could. To mention that the course was designed by Old Tom Morris is to explain its charm and also to marvel at the energy of Old Tom. Imagine the journey from St Andrews to North Devon in the 1860s! Across the county line in Cornwall is St Enodoc, where golf was first played in the 1880s. The current course is the result of James Braid's efforts, first in 1907 and then in the 1930s. The links lie on undulating ground with some unusual features. The 6th has a giant sandhill and bunker - the largest Bernard Darwin had ever seen. From the turn you play a loop of holes around St Enodoc church, which was once buried by wind-blown sand. In the graveyard is a tombstone to Dr Theophilus Hoskin, who once leased some of the land to the club. For many years after his death his widow refused to allow Sunday play on this land, which reduced the course to just twelve holes! The 12th tee gives superb views of Daymer Bay and was one of poet Sir John Betjeman's favourite places. Water, in the shape of The Camel Estuary comes into play on the 16th and a stern finish gives way to the 19th hole, much enjoyed by members and visitors alike.
So there's plenty of good golf and you doubtless know that the West Country is famous for its plethora of fine hotels. If you fly into London Heathrow it's an easy drive to the stunning village of Lacock and its famous inn At the Sign of the Angel. This ancient drovers' inn oozes character and charm, offers comfortable rooms and excellent food. Burnham and Berrow can be reached in 90 minutes but you may want to rest up a day and visit some of the local sights, such as Castle Combe, The Slaughters and Stow-on-the-Wold. For Saunton The Saunton Sands Hotel is adequate, with views over a fine beach, but Marsh Hall at South Moulton offers more character in a rural setting with the Griffiths family there to ensure your every comfort. The St Enodoc Hotel at Rock stands on an elevated site above the Camel Estuary and has been refurbished to good effect. Further west The Boskerris Hotel at Carbis Bay is just outside trendy St Ives and handy for golf at Mullion (West Cornwall). Perched above lawned gardens overlooking the bay the beach is within walking distance! |
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