The Open Championship Courses of England

The 11th is another long and daunting par 3, while the ridged fairway at the 12th tends to kick even straight drives into waiting bunkers. The 13th and 14th are tough, but not as difficult as the 15th, which requires a long carry to the fairway and a well-directed second to a small, contoured green, protected by deep cross bunkers. The 16th, an attractive short hole of 165 yards, witnessed the first televised hole-in-one, by Tony Jacklin at the 1967 Dunlop Masters. Eight bunkers guard the large and undulating green here. The 17th, among the humps and bumps, has a plateau green with a kindly slope at the rear, but the 18th is one of the best finishing holes in golf. A big drive down the left side is mandatory to leave the chance of a raking long iron to the green, which looks uncommonly small from the fairway once the stands have been erected for a championship!

Royal Birkdale (6703 yards, par 70)
Designed by Hawtree and Taylor, founded 1889

Between the Open Championship of 1991 and that of 1998, all of Royal Birkdale's greens were re-laid, with many completely redesigned in the process. In addition, large numbers of trees were removed, to reinstate the links character, and the resultant improvements received widespread approval from golfers and commentators, alike.

1998 witnessed the seventh Open for Royal Birkdale in 37 years, a period in which the club hosted more major events than any other. That, in itself, bears testimony to the stature of the club, and, perhaps, of the regard in which it is held by professional players. Flat fairways laid out in valleys between mighty dunes offer fair bounces and even lies, from which good players can hit receptive and visible greens. Rather like at Muirfield, an aerial view tempts thoughts of additional possible golf holes in the vast tracts of suitable surrounding duneland, but the eighteen on offer are a formidable combination.

The start is as difficult as you will find anywhere, with three testing par 4's, all in excess of 400 yards, and an opening tee shot of pin-point accuracy required to give sight of the green for the approach. Good short holes come at the 4th and 7th, with the tricky dog-leg 5th of only modest length, but the mighty 6th covering 473 yards yet still a par 4! Four more long par 4's straddle the turn, before the 12th, a par 3, which is both picturesque and demanding. Its plateau green is set into the dunes, as if carved out by a giant shovel, with bunkers guarding the approach on both sides.

Two serious par 5's come at the 15th and 17th, but the average player will find par harder to come by at both the 13th (475 yards) and the 18th (472 yards) where the par is only 4! In the Open of 1998, competitors found the 14th, just shy of 200 yards, and the 16th, a stiff par 4 with a daunting tee shot, equally testing to complete a finish which ranks with the best.

The redesigned 18th green is a big improvement on its flat predecessor, but the hole itself has witnessed some of golf's finest moments, including Watson's career 2 iron to seal his victory in 1983 and Jack Nicklaus's memorable concession of Tony Jacklin's putt to halve the Ryder Cup of 1969.

Royal Lytham and St Annes (6673 yards, par 71)
Designer Herbert Fowler, founded 1886

Traditionally, Lytham is held to rank alongside Carnoustie in terms of difficulty, with the entire back nine into the prevailing wind, as at Royal Troon, posing a challenge which only the most able will meet.

The setting of the course, though, is surprisingly suburban, with housing all around and a railway line flanking the entire outward nine on the seaward side. Even the dunes are in part man-made, but, such was Herbert Fowler's skill in their construction, that few visitors today would knowingly eye the impressive ridges at the 7th and 11th and recognize the great man's handiwork.

Fine driving is the primary requirement of the opening holes, with the railway accentuating the threat of out-of-bounds and most holes offering limited bale-out opportunities to the left. Lytham is unique among modern Open Championship courses in that it begins with a short hole, albeit one of 206 yards. There follow two very tough par 4's, both well over 400 yards in length, while the 4th, although over 60 yards shorter than its predecessor, turns back into the prevailing wind and can therefore play just as long. More par 3's come at the 5th and 9th, with back-to-back par 5's and then another testing par 4 in between. Position from the tee is normally vital if the approach shots are to go close, and Lytham's design in this respect is a classic example of risk and reward, since trouble invariably lurks close to the preferred line from the tee.

If, as at Royal Troon, the professionals seek to make their score on the outward half, they generally have to defend it on the long journey home. The 10th and 13th are par 4's short enough to appear friendly, but the 11th is a demanding par 5 and the 12th a tricky short hole, where the out-of-bounds on the right always seems a potential problem with a wood or long iron in hand. The finish is daunting. Two big shots are required to get home at the 14th, but two even bigger blows are mandatory at the 15th, where the rising fairway adds length to a hole, which already measures 463 yards! 'God, it is a hard hole' commented Jack Nicklaus in 1974 in a championship which suffered such bad weather that only Gary Player broke par over four rounds.

A blind drive and a raised green are the hallmarks of the 16th, but the 17th, with its minefield of bunkers at the elbow of its dogleg, enjoys a more famous place in Lytham's history. It was from a sandy lie in this wasteland that Bobby Jones fashioned his celebrated mashie shot to stun Al Watrous and go on to win the 1926 Open.

The last hole, too, has witnessed some magical moments, with both Peter Thompson and Tony Jacklin splitting the fairway on the final day of their respective victories.

Royal Liverpool (7110 yards, par 72)
Revisions to original layout by Colt, Penninck and Hawtree, founded 1869

Royal Liverpool, the second oldest club in England, has been producing great players since golf was first played here, and two marvelous amateurs, John Ball and Harold Hilton, were Hoylake men who could take on and beat the leading professionals in the great tournaments of the day. Indeed, the club started the Amateur Championship, hosted the first International Match and held the inaugural English Amateur Championship, donating the Warwick Vase for presentation to the winner.

In all, 10 Open Championships have been staged here and only lack of space for spectators has prevented additions to that total in the past. But the acquisition of land close to the clubhouse may have solved this problem and The Open is due to return to Hoylake in 2006.

Landmark Open victories came in 1930, the second leg of Bobby Jones' Grand Slam; 1956, Peter Thompson's third successive win; and 1967, a popular and belated triumph for Roberto de Vicenzo. Earlier than any of these was J H Taylor's phenomenal win in the truly awful conditions in which the 1913 event was played. A past host to both Curtis and Walker Cups, Hoylake also has strong links with Augusta and boasts a membership renowned for its courtesy and friendliness.

If the real seaside links holes are confined to the stretch around the turn, the fact that much of the course was once a race course does little to detract from the quality of the remaining holes. Out-of-bounds features at a number of holes, but most notably at the 1st and the 16th, which dogleg around opposite corners of the practice ground, and at the 17th, where the approach is to a green by the roadside pavement.

Good short holes feature at the 4th and 7th, the latter being the subject of much controversy until its out-of-bounds on the left was abolished. The 8th is the second par 5 and rises to a lovely green at the high point of the course. From here, sweeping views of the Dee Estuary give a wilder feel to the course, and contrast with the suburban approach to the clubhouse along Meols Drive. The 10th and 12th are fine, testing par 4's, each followed by an excellent short hole where club selection can be tricky and judgment of wind is important. The last five holes average 470 yards and change direction on every tee. It goes without saying, therefore, that a mastery of woods and long irons is mandatory, and, given that out-of-bounds threatens on three of them, a steely nerve is required as well!

Where to Stay

A trip aiming to cover all the Open courses of England is helped by the fact that they fit neatly into two clusters. Royal St George's, Royal Cinque Ports and Princes are all in Kent, the 'Garden of England', where comfortable accommodations abound, as do sightseeing attractions. Eastwell Manor near Ashford offers baronial accommodations in landscaped parkland, while the County Hotel in Canterbury is for those who like the heart of town and its associated amenities. The Wife of Bath at Wye is a tastefully appointed village inn near Ashford, and Wallet's Court at St Margaret's at Cliffe near Dover has fine food in a cliff-top setting.

Those wishing to break their journey between Kent and Lancashire might consider a stop in the London area (at Pennyhill Park for Sunningdale, Wentworth, Walton Heath and Swinley Forest) or at The Belfry in the Midlands to check out the PGA headquarters and celebrated Ryder Cup venue.

In the north-west, the Chester Grosvenor is the best available and lies at the center of this historic city. Good pubs, shops and restaurants abound. Crabwall Manor has a semi-rural location just out of town and is very convenient for Hoylake. Southport, Lytham and Preston are not well-served with first class hotels. The Preston Marriott is acceptable, but you will find more business customers than fellow golfers. Treetops in Formby is a nicely presented motel and is handy for the courses, while the New Bold in Southport is central for shops, pubs and restaurants, but parking can be tricky. The Clifton Arms in Lytham hints at grandeur in an earlier age.

Other Courses to Play

South East

Littlestone: (6460 yards, par 71) A largely flat test, which appears misleadingly benign from the first tee, as a course record of 67 might imply. Used as a qualifying course when the Open is at Royal St George's, the memories will be of a relatively straight forward outward nine, but a return half of increasing difficulty, the pinnacle of which is represented by the 16th and 17th. The first of these is a punishing dogleg of 468 yards, and the second a classic short hole of 179 yards played from a high tee to a well-bunkered green nestling at the foot of a sandhill.

Rye: (6317 yards, par 68) Home to the annual President's Putter tournament, and rescued from appalling wartime damage, Rye is to golf writer and architect Donald Steel what Aberdovey was to his mentor, Bernard Darwin. A happy place; the course which conjures the fondest golfing memories and the keenest sense of anticipation. With only one par 5 and no less than five par 3's, it is not a standard layout. An ardent fan once contended that the second shot on the par 3's held the key to a score, implying that the small and tricky greens are fiendishly difficult to hit from the tee. Not only that, but the slopes on some of them make two putts a distant dream if the first putt is from above the hole.

North West

Wallasey: (6607 yards, par 72) On the tip of the Wirral Peninsula with views across the Mersey estuary and also towards the hills of North Wales, this Old Tom Morris gem offers much that is best in links golf. Changes of level, inspiring views, wild dunes, sea air and challenging holes. Dr Frank Stableford, the author of the scoring system, was a long serving member here and one of the holes, the 9th, is dedicated to his memory.

West Lancashire: (6763 yards, par 72) The oldest course in Lancashire and one that is unjustly passed over by many in their haste to visit more famous neighbors. With Ken Cotton's design changes, the modern layout boasts two nicely balanced nines, each returning to a new clubhouse, and several of the opening holes run close by the sea. Well designed (and well-kept) bunkers are dotted around fairways and greens renowned for their quality and consistency, and the holes enjoy a variety and interest much to be admired.

Formby: (6695 yards, par 72) Unusually for a seaside links, Formby is bordered on three sides by trees - handsome firs and pines. And, perhaps uniquely, the holes are laid out around another course, the separately-run and charming Ladies' course, which is a gem in its own right. Many visitors to this area would claim that Formby is the prettiest course on the Lancashire coast, and it certainly has an abundance of delightful holes threaded through wooded dunes for the most part. The club has hosted the English Amateur and The Amateur (British) on several occasions. The last winner of this event here was Jose Maria Olazabal, the only player to have won the Boys', Youths' and Amateur Championships.

Hillside: (6930 yards, par72) Having staged the PGA, Amateur and British Ladies' Open Amateur in the space of a few years, there is no denying Hillside's quality or the regard in which it is held as a test for the best players. The start is a mirror image of Prestwick's opening hole, the railway line at Hillside being on the left. Much of the opening half bespeaks examination rather than relaxation, such is the relentless nature of the golfing test. The back nine, created in modern times by Fred Hawtree on land close to Royal Birkdale (which his father designed), are more undulating and far more scenic, but just as demanding.

Southport and Ainsdale: (6612 yards, par 72) Syd Easterbrook holed the putt which won the 1933 Ryder Cup here for the home side, and despite the fact that Walter Hagen's team gained revenge in1937, S and A , as it is known locally, can still count itself as one of only four venues where the cup has been won on home soil. The others are Moortown, Lindrick and The Belfry. Thanks to James Braid's 1923 design, the course makes the most of gently undulating links and its regular use for Open qualification reflects widespread respect for its quality.

Sightseeing Attractions

South East

Hever Castle: (Edenbridge) Double-moated 13th Century castle, childhood home of Anne Boleyn and frequented by Henry VIII during their courtship. Bought and restored in 1903 by William Waldorf Astor. Now houses Tudor exhibition as well as much Edwardian splendor. Outside, Tudor village and Italian gardens and lake offer much of interest.

Sissinghurst Castle: Originally a Tudor mansion, the neglected estate was purchased in 1930 by Sir Harold Nicholson and his wife, the writer Vita Sackville-West. So successful was their restoration project that the gardens are now considered some of the finest in England. The gardens are presented in sections themed according to color or season, and, in addition, there are woodland and moat walks, rose gardens, orchards and an oast house exhibition.

Leeds Castle: (Maidstone) Site of a 9th Century manor house and once described by Lord Conway as 'the loveliest castle in the world'. Built on two islands in a lake and set in 600 acres of ancient parkland, it was converted into a royal palace by Henry VIII and remained a royal residence for 300 years. Modern exhibits include art treasures and medieval dog collars! Sometimes used for top level conferences. Has its own 9 hole golf course, restaurants and events, including classical music concerts and Kentish Evenings.

Chartwell: Winston Churchill's home (he was recently voted 'The Greatest Briton of All Time'). Exhibits include gifts from Roosevelt and Stalin, numerous paintings, some of which are his own work. Outside the landscaped gardens and ponds are the fruits of Churchill's own designs - and, in some cases, his own work.

Dover Castle: Sitting on the famous White Cliffs with views towards France this towering structure has a history going back 2000 years. The underground tunnels housed the command structure which made many of the most momentous decisions in WW2.

Canterbury: Ancient city with magnificent cathedral, home to Britain's senior Archbishop. Guided walks around town are well worth taking.

North West

Chester: Roman city with Tudor town center, housing fascinating shops, elegant restaurants and fine inns. Two tier buildings called the Rows are to be found along the city walls. The cathedral was founded in 1092 as a Benedictine monastery, which became a cathedral in 1641 when Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries. It is extremely well-preserved. Museums cover the Cheshire regiment's history, the Romans in the city (award-winning Grosvenor museum) and medieval life, while the zoo is one of Europe's finest with 5000 animals in 110 acres.

Forest of Bowland: Rural Pennine landscape with attractive villages and superb walks.

English Lake District: Mini Switzerland, with fells (hills), lakes, rivers and woodland. Dry stone walls are a feature and literary connections include Beatrix Potter and William Wordsworth (visit Dove Cottage and museum at Grasmere where he lived from 1799 to 1808, and nearby Rydal Mount, his family home from 1813 to his death in 1850).